Old Indochina from Hanoi to Angkor Wat. It's unlike anywhere else. Raw and simple one minute, bustling and friendly the next. In one breath dramatic and tranquil. A sail among the limestone peaks in Halong Bay. Footpaths that snake through secluded rice paddies. A quiet nod from villagers leading buffalos to water. Touching the ethereal ruins of Angkor with your own hands. It's a journey full of color and intrigue. Every meal is a metaphor for the region's complex culture. Every hotel offers soothing comforts. Temples that defy centuries. Smiles that bridge oceans. And local guides that open doors long closed.
| Duration: | 10 Days |
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| Tour Code: | ITW409 |
| Trip Style: | Deluxe - 5 star |
| Departure Dates: | 18 Mar 2012, 11 Dec 2012, 23 Dec 2012 |
| Price: | From $5,200 |
| Single Supplement: | From $885 |
| Places you'll visit: |
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| Highlights: |
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This walking trip is about embracing what life has to offer, living the experience as it unfolds and at the same time creating memories that will last forever. About half of the people who travel are between the ages of 35 and 55. Older and younger travellers are also well represented. The average group size is 16 and there is a mix of solo travellers, families and couples. They'll exhibit a diversity of interests and occupations and share a love of active travel and the outdoors.
If you would like a roommate, we will endeavor to pair you with one (same gender). If you sign up more than 95 days in advance of departure and no roommate is available, 50% of the private room charge will be due at final payment. Should a roommate be found before your trip departs, the private room charge will be refunded. If you sign up less than 95 days in advance of departure and no roommate is available, the full private room charge will apply. If a roommate is found before your trip departs, the private room charge will be refunded. On some trips, twin room availability is limited; a private room charge applies if a shared room is not available, regardless of the number of days before departure.
GROUP SIZE: 16 average
SEASONAL PRICES: $5,200 to $5,610
Single Supplement: $885 to $1,235
BRIEF ITINERARY
Day 1
A wealth of insight from our local guides, Dragon and Borin, who bring to life the intertwined cultures of Vietnam and Cambodia. Ride in a bicycle rickshaw through old Hanoi's narrow streets packed with food and flower stalls. Hungry? Asia's freshest and tastiest cuisine is within reach. Explore Ngoc Ha, a lively district seldom visited by foreigners.
Days 2-4
Cruise and kayak on heavenly Halong Bay, a World Heritage site with hidden beaches, cool caves and beautiful lagoons. For a unique look at everyday life, you're welcomed by a village headman into his ancient home. Enjoy two peaceful nights beneath a canopy of stars in Halong Bay.
Day 5
The historic monuments of Hué, Vietnam's ancient capital, including the mysterious and imposing Royal Citadel, site of intense conflict during the Vietnam War.
Days 6-7
Hoi An: beautifully preserved and a delight to explore, with an old port and wooden shop houses. Ride a dragon boat up the Perfume River, and walk among waterfront villages and imperial mausoleums. White-sand beaches invite relaxation.
Days 8-10
Thrilling Angkor Wat, where Khmer empires ruled and extraordinary ruins await. Explore awe-inspiring temples, statues and other wonders off the beaten path. Meet villagers in the fishing hamlet of Tonlé Sap.
DETAILED ITINERARY
Day 1
Walking Tour of Hanoi's Old Quarter 1 Hour
Shuttle to Hotel 30 Minutes
After meeting and having a trip orientation at the hotel, we depart for the narrow streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter, packed with food and flower stalls. Tree-lined boulevards, French-Colonial architecture, lakes and parks, along with rich history and vitality, have earned Hanoi the reputation as the "Paris of the Orient".
In 2010 the city celebrated its 1,000-year anniversary, and evidence of old and new saturates the cityscape. The ancient citadel that once protected Hanoi from Mongol and Chinese invaders is just blocks from Internet cafés and trendy shops. Noisy motorbikes zoom past elaborate pagodas and temples-you'll be constantly surprised by what a Vietnamese will strap to a motorbike!-and even time-honored agricultural practices are undergoing rapid changes. It's a place bursting with energy and creativity, yet steadfastly proud of its traditions.
While that's part of what we love about Hanoi, be prepared for this city-and the rest of Vietnam, for that matter-to feel chaotic, like most developing places. Have no fear; we've spent a great deal of time in Vietnam and Cambodia, and we'll help you navigate any challenges to get to the good stuff.
Our walking tour takes us to the home of renowned chef Pham Anh Tuyet, where we get better acquainted over a traditional Vietnamese lunch. Later a short shuttle whisks us to the urban village of Ngoc Ha, where the streets are so narrow scooters and bicycles replace cars. Here you'll come face to face with symbols of peace and war, first as a guest in a local Buddhist temple. Then we stroll to B-52 Lake, the watery grave of the landing gear and fuselage of an American bomber shot down during the war.
Navigating the streets of Hanoi can be daunting, but with the help of your Backroads Trip Leaders, you'll soon see the logic and quickly learn how to get around with ease. Take time this afternoon to explore on your own. Or maybe you'd like to simply linger over a cup of what's rumored to be the best latte in Asia at Café Au Lac, located across the street from the Metropole.
Dining in Hanoi is always an exciting proposition. It's a thriving evolving city, where boutique restaurants are forever opening or falling out of fashion. As a result of this constantly changing culinary landscape, we are continually seeking out Hanoi's best food and most current locations. So while we can't say exactly where we'll dine tonight, we assure you that it'll be an elegant Vietnamese feast at one of the city's most acclaimed restaurants!
Lodging: Sofitel Metropole Hanoi
Day 2
Shuttle to Tho Ha 1½ Hours
Tho Ha Walk 3 Miles
Shuttle to Halong City 3 Hours
Sailing on Halong Bay 3 Hours
Shuttling out of Hanoi, we cross the Red River and pass a cluster of urban villages and wide-open rice paddies before arriving at the outskirts of the ancient village of Tho Ha (or "Land of Peace"). After a short walk, take a riverboat (the local "transit bus") to Tho Ha's doorstep. When we first started traveling here, even local guides hadn't heard of the place. While it's a bit more known now, Backroads is fortunate to have earned a special invite. Off the beaten path, the atmosphere here differs from that of other villages in northern Vietnam thanks to villagers who claim to be the descendants of Tibetan immigrants and preserve ancestral identity.
You'll feel as though you've stepped back into the Middle Ages as you walk through Tho Ha's narrow cobbled pathways, said to be more than 400 years old. Pigs roam freely, and local kids, when not herding swine, escort you around each bend. Chuong, the community's headman, joins us to provide an insider's perspective, showing us his house and guiding us through the village. Chuong's an important man to know: he holds the only key to the village temple.
Continue walking to the neighboring hamlet of Lang Van (or "Village of Clouds") before circling back through the rice paddies for lunch among the brilliant green fields. In the afternoon we shuttle to the busy city of Halong, where we board our private Hung Hai boat, a Chinese-style junk that looks as though it sailed straight from the Opium Wars. Complementing the exquisite old-world façade are the junk's modern amenities, including shower-equipped bathrooms and dining-room tables with crisp white linens. Our quarters are small and casual, but you'll have plenty of time to relax on the expansive deck and soak up the majestic scenery.
We set sail for an introductory tour of Halong Bay, a World Heritage site where wind-carved grottoes, beaches and more than 3,000 islands dot the mouth of the Gulf of Tonkin. According to legend, Halong's islands were created by a great dragon's wild dash from the mountains to the sea, the whiplash of its tail carving the valleys and crevasses. Today, sightings of a mysterious gigantic undersea creature named Tarasque lend new colour to the old story.
Lodging: Huong Hai Junk
Day 3
Kayaking on Halong Bay 1 Hour
Viet Hai Walk 3.1 Miles
Longer Option: 4 Miles
Following breakfast on the junk, we visit Ba Men Ha, a tiny temple maintained by boat-dwelling fishermen, where you can make offerings to the sea goddess for safe journeys. Afterward your leaders demonstrate kayaking techniques and safety, so you can slip into the water and begin paddling.
Tide willing, you'll glide through caves and a low opening in the wall of one of the tall karsts, emerging on the other side in a serene lagoon encircled by towering limestone walls. Many migratory birds, including huge trumpeter hornbills, reside here. Across the horizon the only other boats you'll see are those of fishing families; the thung chai basket boats are made of woven bamboo strips and sealed with pitch.
Returning to the junk, we savor a lunch fresh from the sea while cruising the bay. In the afternoon, we disembark at Cat Ba Island for a casual walk to the remote hamlet of Viet Hai. Strolling along a flat paved trail through a broadleaf jungle, you may catch a glimpse of a golden-headed langur, an endangered monkey found only on the island. As the forest opens up into a fertile valley, stop for a drink at a nearby restaurant surrounded by rice fields and water buffalo.
(Note: Cat Ba Island is experiencing a wave of development. If the tranquility of our walk could be affected, we'll kayak to the small floating fishing village of Cua Van instead. This simple community is a living history museum, offering great insight into the traditional customs, festivals and folklore of the Giang Vong and Truc Vong people.)
After our walk, we sail farther into the bay to a quiet cove where we drop anchor and spend another peaceful evening dining on delicious seafood beneath a canopy of stars.
Lodging: Huong Hai Junk
Day 4
Optional Walk to Titop Island 30 Minutes
Shuttle to Hanoi 3 Hours
Free Time in Hanoi
If you're an early riser, head out before breakfast this morning on a short but strenuous walk - there's a flight of 412 steps! - to the Titop Island pavilion for magnificent 360-degree views of Halong Bay and neighboring Cat Ba Island. Back on the junk, we cruise through Halong Bay, enjoying breakfast en route to Bai Chay Harbour.
Following a scenic shuttle back to Hanoi, we lunch at Seasons of Hanoi, located in what was once the home of the French magistrate. Then pile into cyclos (bicycle rickshaws) for an exciting new perspective of the Old Quarter. Perhaps ask your driver to take you to St. Joseph's Cathedral or to Hoa Lo Prison, nicknamed the "Hanoi Hilton", which held American prisoners from 1964 to 1973. Seek out some of the city's emerging art galleries or upscale boutiques.
For dinner on your own, your Trip Leaders will be happy to let you in on their favorite restaurants. Interested in some local entertainment? Attend a captivating performance of the centuries-old tradition of water puppetry.
Lodging: Sofitel Metropole Hanoi
Day 5
Shuttle to Hanoi Airport 45 Minutes
Flight to Hué 1½ Hours
Citadel Visit & River Walk 2.5 Miles
Shorter Option: 1 Mile
Today we depart for Hué, famed imperial city of the Nguyen dynasty. (Depending on our flight schedule, you may have time to visit the Vietnamese Ethnology Museum for a fascinating look at objects and documents that have been painstakingly preserved to celebrate the heritage of Vietnam's 54 ethnic communities.) Many parts of Hué, including the Citadel, are recognized as World Heritage sites.
Upon our arrival, take a walking tour through the Citadel and the "Forbidden Purple City". From the 13th to the 17th century, Hué served as the capital of Vietnam. The Citadel walls protected the city from invaders and the rival armies of aspiring feudal lords. Much of the structure was destroyed during the Tet Offensive in 1968, but enough remains to give a compelling glimpse into its past. UNESCO has restored some of the adjacent complexes, such as the temple honoring the Nguyen emperors, and the Women's Temple honoring queens and princesses.
You may also want to visit the museum chronicling Vietnam's imperial history. Hué was the only large city below the demilitarized zone that fell to North Vietnamese troops for any significant amount of time. In the late afternoon, walk or shuttle across the Perfume River to the La Résidence Hôtel & Spa, our deluxe Art Deco hotel.
For dinner we're welcomed into the home of a local historian who will discuss everything from his antique collection to feng shui. His house, as well as the company and meal, is a real treat.
Lodging: La Résidence Hôtel & Spa
Day 6
Dragon Boat Cruise 2 Hours
Perfume River Walk & Minh Mang Tomb Tour 1.9 Miles
Optional Walk to Khai Dinh Mausoleum 1 Mile
Shuttle to Hoi An 3 Hours
Start the day with another uniquely Vietnamese experience. A traditional dragon boat ferries us on a sightseeing excursion on the Perfume River, past pagodas and mausoleums constructed in a variety of Southeast Asian styles. Gliding along the water, you'll see locals hard at work-fishing and sand dredging are significant sources of employment here.
Back on shore, continue by foot through riverside villages and past family temples to the tomb of Minh Mang, second Emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty. Then hop in the van for the drive to Khai Dinh's mausoleum, a compound built in an unusual hybrid of Vietnamese and European New-Gothic styles. Khai Dinh was the father of Bao Dai, the last Emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty.
For lunch we're invited into a traditional teahouse surrounded by lush gardens. The property's owner blends local flowers into his teas, which are sold throughout the country.
The breathtaking views en route to the World Heritage site of Hoi An include scenes of striking karst formations rising from vibrant green rice fields. We climb up and over Cloudy Pass - a forested mountain peninsula jutting dramatically into the East China Sea - and then through the outskirts of Danang to Hoi An. The ancient trading town has retained some wonderful Chinese and Japanese architecture, including houses built using rare wood with lacquered boards and ornamental panels of engraved traditional Chinese characters.
We spend the next two nights at The Nam Hai, a peaceful retreat along a stretch of white-sand beach, just a short shuttle ride from Hoi An's bustling historic town center.
Lodging: The Nam Hai
Day 7
Shuttle to Hoi An 30 Minutes
Hoi An Walking Tour 45 Minutes
Cam Kim Island Exploration 2 Hours
Cooking Class
Today promises a perfect balance of sightseeing and relaxation. After shuttling to Hoi An, we begin our walking tour with stops at the 17th-century Japanese bridge and the Chinese communal hall. Later we board a small passenger ferry for a 15-minute trip to Cam Kim Island, whose woodcarving tradition, and thriving arts and crafts industry make it an ideal place to pick up souvenirs. Take time to wander around the quaint villages and talk to the locals.
We ferry back to Hoi An to take part in a fun cooking class during which you'll prepare your own delicious lunch from ingredients gathered at the nearby market.
The afternoon is yours to wander this ancient town. Among Hoi An's shops, old homes and markets, you're sure to find plenty of opportunities to fill your suitcase - and digital camera - with memories! You can also head back to The Nam Hai to take advantage of its many amenities.
For dinner on your own tonight, try out one of the city's casual but delicious restaurants. Order a popular dish like cau lau soup (beef broth with shrimp and pork, topped with crunchy onions, sesame seeds and croutons).
Lodging: The Nam Hai
Day 8
Shuttle to Danang Airport 45 Minutes
Flight to Siem Reap (via Saigon) 2 Hours
Shuttle to Hotel 30 Minutes
Angkor Tom Temple Walking Tour 2 Hours
A morning flight takes us first to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and then across the border into Cambodia. Even during our short visit to this recuperating country, you'll notice a distinctly different feel from that of Vietnam. Cities and towns in Cambodia are rapidly developing, but with a lingering flavour of old-world Asia. Epic ruins of a once powerful empire, impoverished small villages recovering from years of Khmer Rouge rule, and the crowds of bustling Siem Reap coexist in this land of stark contrast.
Once a sleepy village that served as a place to lay your head after a long day exploring the Angkor ruins, Siem Reap has become a hotbed of hotel development as it attempts to accommodate the ever-increasing number of visitors. An upside to this growth is that stylish galleries and restaurants now complement old cafés and traditional markets.
Assuming we have no flight delays, we'll head straight to the Bayon complex at Angkor Tom - once a city unto itself. Immense Khmer carvings stare out into the jungle from every direction, and the walls are like the pages of a book, each telling a story in bas-relief.
We spend the next two nights at Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, which combines timeless elegance with service that's hard to find in this developing country. Travel+Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler have both recognized this resort as one of the world's top hotels, but its historic nature means it's occasionally worn around the edges. Still, its location can't be beat - removed from Siem Reap's busy noisy downtown, yet close to the ruins.
After settling in, explore the beautiful grounds or venture into the city center to check out the many markets and galleries. Tonight we dine at one of Siem Reap's great restaurants.
Lodging: Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor
Day 9
Shuttle to Tonle Sap 30 Minutes
Kampong Klaeng Walk 3 Hours Round-Trip
Boat Ride to Floating Villages 1 Hour
Afternoon Walking Tour of Ta Prom 2 Hours
Start the day early with a shuttle out to fascinating Tonle Sap, home to one of the world's most productive fisheries. Because Cambodians derive 70 percent of their protein from fish, life here has always been intimately connected to the water. Evidence of this is clear in the carvings of fish and fisherman that can be seen etched in the stone buildings of Angkor Wat.
Our walk begins on the banks of Tonle Sap and ends in Kampong Klaeng, a relatively large village very much off the beaten path. The houses are on stilts because heavy rains flood the lake for half the year, swallowing up all roads into and out of the village in the process. Assuming the floods have been typical this year, we'll hop onto local fishing boats to explore these part-time -floating‖ villages. The fish and snails harvested by these villagers supply the whole region with valuable protein.
Lunch is at the lakeside home of a local resident. If flooding has been extreme, we'll skip the visit to Kampong Klaeng and show you some of our favorite villages on drier land.
After returning to our hotel in Siem Reap, feel free to relax by the pool or enjoy the spa. Or you can join us in the afternoon for a guided walk around Ta Prohm Temple, one of the lesser-restored buildings within the Angkor Wat World Heritage site. Because very little renovation has been done here, the jungle covers many of the buildings. In fact, a number of the enormous strangler fig roots that split the temple sculptures now help hold the complex together.
Bunlay, our local guide with an amazing family history, leads us through the temple grounds and talks about the ruins and Cambodia's history. Take time to explore on your own before heading back to the Grand Hotel for our farewell dinner.
Lodging: Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor
Day 10
Optional Angkor Wat Loop 3.7 Miles
Shorter Option: 1.9 Miles
Shuttle to Siem Reap Airport 30 Minutes
Today early birds can experience the stunning beauty of a sunrise over Angkor Wat - it's the best light of the day for taking photos. Later a local guide provides insight into the extraordinary bas reliefs that wrap around the temple. We return to the hotel for a scrumptious brunch.
ACCOMMODATION
Sofitel Metropole Legend Hanoi, Hanoi (2 nights)
In the heart of old Hanoi near the Opera House, this five-star historic landmark is a French-Colonial gem with accolades from Travel + Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler. (pool, spa)
Bai Tho Junk, Halong Bay (2 nights)
Our comfortable fully-equipped boat sails amid the bay's surreal karst formations by day and anchors in quiets cove by night.
La Résidence Hôtel & Spa, Hué (1 night)
Blending Asian style and Colonial charm, this boutique hotel is housed in the former governor's mansion on the bank of the Perfume River. (pool, spa, tennis)
The Nam Hai, Hoi An (2 nights)
This luxury resort - one of the world's hottest hotels according to Condé Nast Traveler - is set on pristine China Beach, near the picturesque town of Hoi An. (pool, spa, tennis)
Raffles Grand Hotel d'Ankgor, Siem Reap (2 nights)
This Condé Nast Traveler Gold List winner is described by Andrew Harper as a "stylish and beautifully restored landmark resort-hotel surrounded by a 15-acre park, less than five miles from Angkor Wat." (pool, spa, tennis)
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